Aug 30 2017

Salzburg Fortress, Cafes, Karajan and Kugeln

Published by at 7:55 pm under PSO 2017 European Tour

During his lifetime Herbert von Karajan became the most recorded conductor of all time. He helped to design the Salzburg festival large hall working on the plans for the new facility where the Pittsburgh Symphony played starting in 1956. Boxed sets of his recordings and videos are for sale in the gift shop in Salzburg. Karajan’s widow widow still has a home nearby and his life size figure looks out from a center city ¬†shop.

Herbert von Karajan in the lobby of the Grosses Festspielhaus

Herbert von Karajan in a Salzburg souvenir shop window

Karajan Souvenirs


Principal Tuba Craig Knox, trumpet Chad Winkler, trumpet, Micah Wilkinson on loan from San Diego, trumpet, with Neal Berntsen, trumpet and Jim Nova trombone

I heard Principal tuba Craig Knox practicing away and many other instruments are heard from behind hotel room doors but in the few hours before packing for Grafenegg Austria in the morning the musicians walked the city, some making it all the way to the top of the Fortress begun by Romans 900 years ago.

Salzburg Cathedral

Salzburg from the Fortress

From the Festung Hohensalzburg

Cellists Bronwyn Banerdt and Charlie Powers

Hong Guang Jia Assistant Concertmaster and Wei Wei

Mozart chocolate is everywhere in Salzburg. The “real” Mozart kugeln, Mozart balls, are said to be made by a candy maker with blue and silver wrapping but Mirabel and Reber also say theirs is the real deal.

The largest display of Mozart candy I found was in the Spar grocery in the Salzburg main station but entire candy stores are devoted to Wolfgang in the old city.

The cafe life is wonderful in Salzburg with Tomaselli and Cafe Glockenspiel providing outdoor spots for ice cream and pastry with whipped cream. Der Goldener Hirsch is a favorite hotel for Salzburg Festival conductors. Andre Previn mentioned it was the best place to get the Salzburg desert called the Nockerl which takes extra time to prepare. It is meringue shaped like the mountains nearby with a layer of berries or pomegranates at the bottom. The presentation is elegant with soft voiced waiters in green coats presenting the desert with a flourish.

Mohnstrudel with poppyseeds and a cheese and fruit tart at Cafe Tomaselli

Mohnstrudel with poppyseeds and a cheese and fruit tart at Cafe Tomaselli

Cafe Tomaselli

Cafe Glockenspiel Eisbecher with three types of ice cream, fruit and whipped cream

Salzburger Nockerln at the Goldener Hirsch

Salzburger Nockerln