Hail to the Cheap, cont'd [ BY SAM EDELMANN ]

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Late Night Bites
It's after one in the morning, and you're out of the smoky bar and in the cool night air. Whether on the Strip or the South Side, you're too hungry to go to sleep and too tired to sit in a restaurant. Allow me to suggest a couple of low-priced options, both alfresco and el cheapo.

In the Strip, try the pizza window at La Pizza del Pazzo, on the loading dock of the Produce Terminal (18th and Smallman streets, 412/281-3333). A big slice of New York-style pizza is only $1.75 ($2 with a topping). And while there are tables in the dining area, the idea of eating a folded-over slice on the street, taking in the sights, is one of life's pleasures. Opens at 10 a.m., Monday-Saturday, closing at 2 a.m. Tuesday-Friday, until 3 a.m. Saturday. Monday is for lunch only, 10 a.m.-3 p.m.

Over on the South Side, there is a permanent truck parked in the alley on East Carson near 17th Street. Cambodian Cookery has good chicken on a stick and beef satay with peanut sauce, as well as spring rolls and delicious wonton skins filled with cream cheese and crabmeat, then deep-fried. The perfect antidote for the late-night hungries.

Sam Edelmann, who reviews "Good Eats" each month, is at least a prince of cheap food.

Fishes & (Pizza) Loaves
Many churches in the area host occasional meals (think of the Lenten fish fries) at one time or another. But a few sell their wares -- often homemade, low-priced and tasty -- on a more regular basis.

At the Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church (302 W. North Ave., North Side, 412/321-9282), parishioners open the social hall every Wednesday from 11 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. for mostly Greek specialty items. I say mostly, as along with Greek-style chicken and fish plaki, you may also find salisbury steak or pierogies. Full lunches ($5.50) include two vegetables, salad and roll and butter. A lot of food. But the real bargains are found in the a la carte area, with squares of spanakopita or tiropita for only a buck, plus homemade cake, baklava, or a divine rice pudding for $1.10. Go early for the best selection, and enjoy even more Greek specialties during the church's festival, Aug. 29-Sept. 2.

Fridays and fried fish: a Pittsburgh tradition. At St. Gregory's Russian Orthodox Church (214 E. 15th Ave., Homestead, 412/462-8256), you get a large filet on a bun for $3.50. But that's only the start of the starches. Halushki is available ($2 for a large helping) as well as some nice potato pancakes ($1.50). And save room for the cheregi: sweet, fried bread ($1.50/6). Serves Fridays from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

For more than 45 years, the ladies of what's now St. John of God Parish (kitchen at Mother of Sorrows Social Hall, 10 DeSiderio Way, Stowe Township, 412/331-8530) have spent every Friday morning making a calzone-style pizza called a falagone. This is a thin, crisp pizza dough, filled with any combination of spinach, potato and hot sausage. Prices for a pie that serves two for lunch or dinner run $6 and up. And, as long as you're there, try the fried cakes, dusted with sugar. Orders taken from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m., to be picked up 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m. The pizza kitchen is closed till after Labor Day.

Sitting Down
Restaurant choices are limited in this price range, but there are a few finds. At Sultan's (3715 Forbes Ave., Oakland, 412/688-0766), you'll get a filling burrito with a choice of meats or veggies for $4 to $5. Don't miss the fresh salsa to spice things up. For a dollar or two more, you can move up to the area's only Turkish sandwiches and salads. (Open Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.)

At Tillie's (308 36th St., McKeesport, 412/672-7557), the spaghetti and fettuccine ($4.70-up) are delicious and cooked perfectly. Add a soft, spicy meatball (80¢) or a large segment of hot sausage ($1), and you've got an inexpensive meal. Or go for the ravioli. Either meat or cheese ($3.50 w/meatball or meat sauce) has a nice texture, with a gooey cheese adding to the standard ricotta filling. (Open Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday, 4 p.m. to 10 p.m.)

On Saturdays from noon to 9 p.m., the lower level of Portofino's Pizza opens as Exquisite Persian Cuisine (408 Smithfield St. downtown, 412/471-7885). Not only is the food excellent, but also, if ordered correctly, amazingly inexpensive (reservations recommended). The combo kabob dinner is priced at $16.99, but with a large salad and a huge plate of basmati rice included, the three skewers of meat (saffron-marinated chicken, filet mignon and ground lamb) are more than enough for three people. Add some masto and mousir (chopped shallots mixed in fresh yogurt) for $2.75, and you have a veritable feast.