Butler Street Boho
Downstairs, it's a 1950s taproom turned into a sleek bar. Upstairs, it's a music club that jumps to the newest DJ beats. Transformed by a couple of New York transplants, brillobox incorporates the history and future of Lawrenceville. Spanning Civil War-era storefronts with fresh coats of chartreuse paint, lace-curtain row homes and a whole new generation of people from somewhere else, Larryville is suddenly on everyone's radar.
"It's a cult," Kitty Julian says conspiratorially. Marketing director for Carnegie Museums of Art and Natural History, this eight-year resident may be wrong. The word is definitely out on the city's fastest-changing neighborhood, transforming itself more than two years in advance of a major-league new neighbor: the new Children's Hospital on Penn Avenue.
From the landmark Doughboy statue near 34th Street, where Penn Avenue and Butler Street diverge, Lawrenceville stretches away from downtown along the Allegheny River to 62nd Street. Along the way it picks up a funky shopping stretch, an 1840 cemetery, pre-Civil War housing stock and a collection of artist-hipsters who live happily among families that emigrated from Europe two generations ago.
Gateway to Allegheny Cemetery.
"Allegheny Cemetery is the heart and history of the neighborhood," says Julian, of 47th Street, who frequently takes her toddler there. "It's timeless and uplifting, just amazing to visit. And there's lots of wildlife. When you walk in, it's like, cue the deer! You're surrounded by two centuries of funereal art, with fountains in summer. It's a magical place."
Retail shops--funky clothes, antiques and art--have sprouted on Butler Street, where brightly painted facades beckon. And here, bowling is chic: Arsenal Lanes packs in hipsters for beer, karaoke, live music and gutter balls. Homes on many of the narrow side streets offer prime single-family real estate. Front porches and back alleys give neighbors plenty of face time.
"I'm not worried about gentrification--we have houses of all shapes and sizes--but I am amazed to see people spending more than $200,000," says Julian.
The neoclassical grandeur of PNC Bank enhances Butler Street.
Penn Avenue's transformation has been slower than Butler's, but it's being kick-started by the new-wave brillobox, the former Penn Cafe re-opened by Renee Ickes and Eric Stern last year. "Larryville reminds me of Williamsburg," says Ickes, referring to the Brooklyn neighborhood where she and husband Eric Stern lived before moving here in 2005. "I'm shocked at how vibrant and creative the neighborhood is, and how well it's supported us."
Bus No. 91 zips locals to the Golden Triangle in 15 minutes, but they're equally happy to walk or pedal to destinations. Stern jumps onto his bike and crosses the 31st Street bridge to the North Shore Trail for a workout; dog-walkers like the cemetery and Arsenal Park.
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