The Rising Stars
Two twentysomething chefs who are gearing up for the big time.

The big Burrito Group distinguishes itself in nurturing young talent. This year two of its chefs earn the Rising Star Chef award: Eric “Spudz” Wallace, executive chef, Casbah; and Kevin Sousa, executive chef, Soba (until recently executive chef, Kaya). Not only are they young (26 and 29 respectively) and talented (each transformed the restaurant in his charge, elevating service and introducing stunning, cutting-edge cuisine), but also they manifest that Pittsburgh ethic of honest, hard work, coupled with a passion for food. Sharing similar values and beliefs, they’re great buddies—and engaging, well-rounded human beings.

Wallace joined big Burrito as a Soba line cook in 1999, then moved up quickly to sous chef at Casbah. After working briefly as executive chef at Kaya, he returned to Casbah as this Mediterranean restaurant and wine bar’s top toque. Enamored of cheese, he runs a sophisticated cheese program there, along with an exciting, daily fine-dining menu reflecting the flavors of North Africa, Southern France and the Middle East. His fascination with food extends to random facts, trivia and anthropology. Sometime in the long-term of his career, he says, teaching has appeal, or maybe even importing. And what about that sobriquet? “Even my mom calls me Spudz,” he says. “When I was a fumbling 19-year-old prep cook, Bill [bB corporate chef Fuller] challenged me to get faster peeling potatoes. I topped out at 5 minutes, 34 seconds for a 50-pound, 90-count case.”

Sousa also started his bB days as a Soba line cook, then moved to Kaya, first as sous chef, then as executive chef. Before that, though, he’d attended Pennsylvania Culinary Institute, worked at Café Zinho and Steelhead Grill, did an externship in Arizona and served as senior saucier under Keith Coughenauer at the Duquesne Club. But it was really at Kaya, he reveals, that he learned how to be a chef—not just cooking, but managing people and paperwork. “Kaya offered a wonderful opportunity,” he says. “Everyone was looking for major changes, so we could redefine the restaurant.” Just recently Sousa moved to the executive-chef post at Soba. The venue is three times the size of Kaya, but Soba’s food—Asian with European twists—relates more to Sousa’s training. He also expects greater freedom there and an easier sell of his creative dishes to Soba’s sophisticated diners. — A.H.

Soba
5847 Ellsworth Ave., Shadyside; 412/362-5656.

Casbah
229 S. Highland Ave., Shadyside; 412/661-5656, www.bigburrito.com

tonic bar & grill
Late-night bite
971 Liberty Ave., downtown;
412/456-0460, www.tonicpittsburgh.com.
An instant Pittsburgh classic just across from the convention center, tonic’s popular with both first-time tourists and regular Cultural District patrons as a place for cocktails and dessert (chocolate truffles, walnut crisps, creme brulee). Perhaps less-talked-about, the meals are terrific, too; thank chef Jared Marran, who knows that Pittsburghers “still love meat and potatoes.”

Umi Japanese Restaurant
World class in Pittsburgh
5849 Ellsworth Ave., Shadyside;
412/362-6198, www.bigburrito.com/umi.
Last year, Umi chef Mr. Shu’s selection as Chef of the Year prompted us to take special note of the recent Asian explosion in Pittsburgh’s restaurant world. Umi’s harmonious bamboo-and-stone-decorated second-floor dining room is still one of the best, and Mr. Shu is still one cool cat, who says at home his family “loves to eat fish-head soup” and his favorite Food Network show is “not ‘Iron Chef.’”