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Chef of the Year
Brad Kelly brings youthful dynamism to
the kitchen at Lautrec.
Handsome
Brad Kelly, chef de cuisine of Lautrec, at Nemacolin Woodlands
Resort & Spa, is decidedly photogenic. But
it’s tough to nail him in a still photo. Hands wave,
head pivots, fast-paced shifts in expressions animate his
face. An A-plus talent soars here on a type-A personality.
And Kelly, at 31, seems destined to star in the culinary
big leagues. He’s got focus, drive, thoughtful self-direction
and the wonderful ability to absorb the best of the excellent
experiences he’s had. Listen as he pinpoints a precise
skill or understanding extracted from each work circumstance.
As a teenager, juggling many tasks at a family restaurant
in Lancaster, Pa.: “I discovered a passion for cooking
that propelled me to formal training at Johnson & Wales
University. The more new things I did, the more I wanted
to learn.”
Two years, as tournant/chef de partie, under the legendary
George Perrier at Le Bec Fin in Philadelphia: “George
has the best tasting palate I know, and he tastes everything.
If not perfect, the sauce doesn’t go out.”
A rigorous stint at La Côte Basque in Manhattan: “Chef
Jean Jacques Rachaou is old-school French. Most of all, it
was the exposure to a high-energy New York kitchen—I
found I could hang in there.”
As sous chef to celebrated chef Patrick O’Connell at
The Inn at Little Washington, Washington, Va.: “Patrick
taught me the importance of attention to detail, of seeing
everything through the guest’s eyes—and also
the theatrics of a restaurant. You put in all the work, and
then: ‘It’s showtime!’”
Working with on-the-rise chef Melissa Perello at award-winning
Charles Nob Hill in San Francisco: “In California,
you get to really work ingredients. Melissa and I bonded;
the restaurant got a AAA five-diamond rating while I was
there.”
Kelly says he loved California but was eager to return to
the East Coast. So when Nemacolin called, he jumped to the
challenge. “It’s a great place to cook,” he
says. “Pittsburgh’s growing, and there’s
a wonderful hub of farms here.”
A strong advocate for teamwork, he eagerly acknowledges the
dedication of his staff, including dining-room manager Marla
Burgess, as well as the commitment of the resort’s
ownership. Together, he says, they’re working toward
making Lautrec a five-star, five-diamond destination restaurant. “It’s
all about excellence and consistency,” he says. “It’s
not enough to hit a home run. You’ve got to knock the
ball out of the park.” (1001 Lafayette Drive, Farmington;
800/422-2736, www.nemacolin.com) — A.H
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Dish
Osteria & Bar
High-energy NYC appeal
128 S. 17th St., South Side;
412/390-2012.
While most American cooks are watching the Food Network, Dish’s
Michele Savoia keeps an eye on RAI—that’s Radiotelevisione
Italiana, for the uninitiated. The restaurateur keeps in touch
with his European roots in other ways, too; Savoia, who learned
the trade from his Sicilian grandmother, Margherita, enjoys
food at local places such as Il Pizzaiolo, Le Pommier and Lidia’s.
His motto: “Cook with passion.”
Girasole
Fresh Italian
733 Copeland St., Shadyside;
412/682-2130, www.733copeland.com.
Chef Jennifer Girasole’s slogan in the kitchen: “Fresh,
clean and happy!” That philosophy meshes well with
her restaurant’s (and family’s) name—Italian
for “sunflower.” Today, four years after the
cozy, subterranean dining room opened, Jennifer says she’s
finding that diners “are starting to order food as-is,
with fewer modifications.” That’s a triumph for
Pittsburgh culinary sophistication.
Hyeholde
Romantic castle dining
190 Hyeholde Drive, Moon Township;
412/264-3116, www.hyeholde.com.
If Pittsburgh doesn’t have ancient
European ruins, it does have this beautiful
1930s fairytale castle nestled in amid
the trees and hills of Moon. Situated not
far from the airport, Hyeholde can never
be sure who might pop in for some sherry
bisque or spiced grilled dorade. “One
day, a white limo pulled up,” says
chef Chris O’Brien, “and who
steps out but Gregory Peck and his wife.”
Isabela
What a view
1318 Grandview Ave., Mount Washington;
412/431-5882.
Chef Kevin Huminen
keeps an open mind about his craft: “I pride myself on
having a fairly extensive knowledge of technique
and ingredients, from European to Asian to
Indian, and yet in 10 years in the restaurant
industry, I still find things I’ve
never even heard of—on a regular basis.” His
two major influences: his mother and chef
Tom Rebstock at Bruschetta. His favorite
local joints: the Sharp Edge Creekhouse and
Fat Heads. (“How much quail and filet
mignon can one possibly take?”)
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