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Brad Kelly

Chef of the Year
Brad Kelly brings youthful dynamism to the kitchen at Lautrec.

Handsome Brad Kelly, chef de cuisine of Lautrec, at Nemacolin Woodlands Resort & Spa, is decidedly photogenic. But it’s tough to nail him in a still photo. Hands wave, head pivots, fast-paced shifts in expressions animate his face. An A-plus talent soars here on a type-A personality. And Kelly, at 31, seems destined to star in the culinary big leagues. He’s got focus, drive, thoughtful self-direction and the wonderful ability to absorb the best of the excellent experiences he’s had. Listen as he pinpoints a precise skill or understanding extracted from each work circumstance.
As a teenager, juggling many tasks at a family restaurant in Lancaster, Pa.: “I discovered a passion for cooking that propelled me to formal training at Johnson & Wales University. The more new things I did, the more I wanted to learn.”
Two years, as tournant/chef de partie, under the legendary George Perrier at Le Bec Fin in Philadelphia: “George has the best tasting palate I know, and he tastes everything. If not perfect, the sauce doesn’t go out.”
A rigorous stint at La Côte Basque in Manhattan: “Chef Jean Jacques Rachaou is old-school French. Most of all, it was the exposure to a high-energy New York kitchen—I found I could hang in there.”
As sous chef to celebrated chef Patrick O’Connell at The Inn at Little Washington, Washington, Va.: “Patrick taught me the importance of attention to detail, of seeing everything through the guest’s eyes—and also the theatrics of a restaurant. You put in all the work, and then: ‘It’s showtime!’”
Working with on-the-rise chef Melissa Perello at award-winning Charles Nob Hill in San Francisco: “In California, you get to really work ingredients. Melissa and I bonded; the restaurant got a AAA five-diamond rating while I was there.”
Kelly says he loved California but was eager to return to the East Coast. So when Nemacolin called, he jumped to the challenge. “It’s a great place to cook,” he says. “Pittsburgh’s growing, and there’s a wonderful hub of farms here.”
A strong advocate for teamwork, he eagerly acknowledges the dedication of his staff, including dining-room manager Marla Burgess, as well as the commitment of the resort’s ownership. Together, he says, they’re working toward making Lautrec a five-star, five-diamond destination restaurant. “It’s all about excellence and consistency,” he says. “It’s not enough to hit a home run. You’ve got to knock the ball out of the park.” (1001 Lafayette Drive, Farmington; 800/422-2736, www.nemacolin.com) — A.H

Dish Osteria & Bar
High-energy NYC appeal
128 S. 17th St., South Side;
412/390-2012.

While most American cooks are watching the Food Network, Dish’s Michele Savoia keeps an eye on RAI—that’s Radiotelevisione Italiana, for the uninitiated. The restaurateur keeps in touch with his European roots in other ways, too; Savoia, who learned the trade from his Sicilian grandmother, Margherita, enjoys food at local places such as Il Pizzaiolo, Le Pommier and Lidia’s. His motto: “Cook with passion.”

Girasole
Fresh Italian
733 Copeland St., Shadyside;
412/682-2130, www.733copeland.com.
Chef Jennifer Girasole’s slogan in the kitchen: “Fresh, clean and happy!” That philosophy meshes well with her restaurant’s (and family’s) name—Italian for “sunflower.” Today, four years after the cozy, subterranean dining room opened, Jennifer says she’s finding that diners “are starting to order food as-is, with fewer modifications.” That’s a triumph for Pittsburgh culinary sophistication.

Hyeholde
Romantic castle dining
190 Hyeholde Drive, Moon Township;
412/264-3116, www.hyeholde.com.

If Pittsburgh doesn’t have ancient European ruins, it does have this beautiful 1930s fairytale castle nestled in amid the trees and hills of Moon. Situated not far from the airport, Hyeholde can never be sure who might pop in for some sherry bisque or spiced grilled dorade. “One day, a white limo pulled up,” says chef Chris O’Brien, “and who steps out but Gregory Peck and his wife.”

Isabela
What a view
1318 Grandview Ave., Mount Washington;
412/431-5882
.
Chef Kevin Huminen keeps an open mind about his craft: “I pride myself on having a fairly extensive knowledge of technique and ingredients, from European to Asian to Indian, and yet in 10 years in the restaurant industry, I still find things I’ve never even heard of—on a regular basis.” His two major influences: his mother and chef Tom Rebstock at Bruschetta. His favorite local joints: the Sharp Edge Creekhouse and Fat Heads. (“How much quail and filet mignon can one possibly take?”)

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