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The 25 Best Restaurants

June 2004

The 25 Best
Our Blue Ribbon Committee picks the year's absolute finest dining spots.

story by Ann Haigh and magazine staff
photography by Richard Kelly

 

 

 

From hip to classic, from urban to bucolic, from $5 appetizers to five-course extravaganzas—this year has seen an unprecedented increase in sheer chef talent. After months of intensive research—and, oh, how we hated every second of it!—PITTSBURGH magazine's restaurant editor, Ann Haigh, and the Blue Ribbon Committee, comprising a dozen serious win and food experts, have picked the finest of the fine: 25 restaurants that make even the most jaded mouth water, plus a crop of special awardees.

Baum Vivant
Portuguese eclectic cuisine
5102 Baum Blvd., Shadyside;
412/682-2620.

Chef/owner Tony Pais keeps his culinary philosophy as basic as his exquisite menu: “It’s good, looks beautiful, but we can make it better. There’s always room to improve.” That’s a fitting epigraph for the ever-expanding restaurateur, whose flagship eatery, Baum Vivant, has stayed atop the local scene for years—and who has just opened his third Pittsburgh venue, Café Zao, in the Cultural District.

Bikki
Trendy Euro-Indian fusion
736 Bellefonte St., Shadyside;
412/683-5756, www.bikkicuisine.com.
Paella from Bikki
“I want Pittsburgh to have every kind of food that any other U.S. city has,” says prolific restaurateur Bikram Kochhar. He’s on the way to making that happen with his latest restaurant, Bikki. The East End hot ticket, headed up by chef/restaurateur Chris Frangiadis and sous chef Jeremy Hickey, presents well-woven flavors that conceal a profusion of ingredients and labor-intensive preparations. Diners rap in the cool basement bistro while rapt with Bikki’s complex but integrated dishes.

Bona Terra
Reservations a must
908 Main St., Sharpsburg;
412/781-8210.

Butternut squash soup from Bona Terra

Earthy, contemporary Bona Terra wins our Best New Restaurant honors this year (see page 46). In creating his outstanding menu, chef Douglass Dick credits local ingredients from Penn’s Corner Farm Alliance (see page 98) and La Prima Espresso (“Hands-on, superior quality”). Asked to name a dish that didn’t mesh with local palates, Dick cites his melon carpaccio with sea salt and baby arugula. Perhaps he’ll give it another chance some day.

Café Asia
Asian mélange
5833 Forbes Ave., Squirrel Hill;
412/521-2080.

The winner of this year’s Delicious Design award (see page 49), Café Asia delights with its hip fusion of Japanese, Thai and Vietnamese cuisine. Chef Ben Nguyen credits the Seattle food scene with forging his
talents, and names Vancouver’s Sala Thai his favorite out-of-town eatery. While Pittsburgh diners are growing more open to exotic flavors, Nguyen says, he himself eats “very simple but healthy” at home—say, spinach with fish sauce or shrimp paste.

The Café at the Frick
Lunch in the garden
7227 Reynolds St., Point Breeze;
412/371-0600, www.frickart.org.

When chef Susie Treon left Laforêt and mentor Michael Uricchio to open The Café at the Frick, she knew she was taking a risk. It paid off: The now-favorite luncheon venue was highlighted last year on the Food Network. Treon subscribes to the philosophy of Chicago chef Charlie Trotter: “He once said if you strive for perfection in the kitchen, what you end up with is usually something pretty good.”

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