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June
2004
The
25 Best
Our
Blue Ribbon Committee picks the year's absolute finest dining spots.
story by Ann Haigh and magazine
staff
photography
by Richard Kelly
| From
hip to classic, from urban to bucolic, from $5 appetizers
to five-course extravaganzas—this
year has seen an unprecedented increase in sheer chef talent.
After months of intensive research—and,
oh, how we hated every second of it!—PITTSBURGH magazine's restaurant
editor, Ann Haigh, and the Blue Ribbon Committee, comprising
a dozen serious win and food experts, have picked the finest
of the fine: 25 restaurants that make even the most jaded mouth
water, plus a crop of special awardees. |
Baum Vivant
Portuguese eclectic cuisine
5102 Baum Blvd., Shadyside;
412/682-2620.
Chef/owner Tony Pais keeps his culinary philosophy as basic
as his exquisite menu: “It’s good, looks beautiful,
but we can make it better. There’s always room to improve.” That’s
a fitting epigraph for the ever-expanding restaurateur, whose
flagship eatery, Baum Vivant, has stayed atop the local scene
for years—and who has just opened his third Pittsburgh
venue, Café Zao, in the Cultural District.
Bikki
Trendy Euro-Indian fusion
736 Bellefonte St., Shadyside;
412/683-5756, www.bikkicuisine.com.
Paella from Bikki
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“I want Pittsburgh to have every kind of food that any other
U.S. city has,” says prolific restaurateur Bikram Kochhar.
He’s on the way to making that happen with his latest
restaurant, Bikki. The East End hot ticket, headed up by
chef/restaurateur Chris Frangiadis and sous chef Jeremy Hickey,
presents well-woven flavors that conceal a profusion of ingredients
and labor-intensive preparations. Diners rap in the cool
basement bistro while rapt with Bikki’s complex but
integrated dishes.
Bona Terra
Reservations a must
908 Main St., Sharpsburg;
412/781-8210.
Butternut squash soup from Bona Terra
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Earthy, contemporary Bona
Terra wins our Best New Restaurant honors
this year (see
page 46). In creating his outstanding
menu, chef Douglass Dick credits local ingredients from Penn’s
Corner Farm Alliance (see page 98) and La Prima Espresso
(“Hands-on, superior quality”). Asked to name
a dish that didn’t mesh with local palates, Dick cites
his melon carpaccio with sea salt and baby arugula. Perhaps
he’ll give it another chance some day.
Café Asia
Asian mélange
5833 Forbes Ave., Squirrel Hill;
412/521-2080.
The winner of this year’s Delicious Design award (see
page 49), Café Asia delights with its hip fusion of
Japanese, Thai and Vietnamese cuisine. Chef Ben Nguyen credits
the Seattle food scene with forging his
talents, and names Vancouver’s Sala Thai his favorite
out-of-town eatery. While Pittsburgh diners are
growing more open to exotic flavors, Nguyen says, he himself
eats “very simple but healthy” at
home—say, spinach with fish sauce or shrimp paste.
The Café at the
Frick
Lunch in the garden
7227 Reynolds St., Point Breeze;
412/371-0600,
www.frickart.org.
When chef Susie Treon left Laforêt
and mentor Michael Uricchio to open The
Café at the Frick, she knew she
was taking a risk. It paid off: The now-favorite
luncheon venue was highlighted last year
on the Food Network. Treon subscribes to
the philosophy of Chicago chef Charlie
Trotter: “He once said if you strive
for perfection in the kitchen, what you
end up with is usually something pretty
good.”
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