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Business is
booming at this popular Dormont eatery. The big attraction, of course,
is the food of chef Franco D'Amico, a Pittsburgh culinary icon for
more than 30 years. The place also offers a spirited ambience and
the talents of chef Joe Tambellini.
Over this past
year, the restaurant added more daily specials, initiated a monthly
wine-dinner program and expanded desserts, including gorgeous gelato
from Mulberry Street Creamery, based in Kittanning. But Franco himself
is still there every day till noon, prepping the food his devoted
fans crave. Fried zucchini, stuffed hot banana peppers, osso buco
-- all remain solid sellers. So is the giant veal chop stuffed with
prosciutto and aged asiago cheese, served over risotto with a mushroom
demi-glace.
Under Franco's
tutelage, chef Joe Tambellini keeps the traditions alive but also
adds contemporary flair -- especially in the specials. Each day
he shops in the Strip District for the freshest fish and produce
available. One day it's sturgeon, another time Chilean sea bass
that he crusts with almonds and serves with mandarin orange buerre
blanc and wild berry marmalade.
This friendly,
neighborhood spot generously dispenses personalized attention. Meatballs
appear for child guests. Complimentary antipasti pass around the
bar.
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One hot concept,
P.F. Chang's combines stunning decor with finely tuned service,
a good wine program, fair prices and a broadly accessible menu of
Chinese regional dishes.
Though a chain
(based in Phoenix, Ariz.), each Chang's is laid out differently;
each boasts a unique hand-crafted mural depicting a different event
in Chinese history. Two giant horses, symbolizing China's ancient
Forbidden City, impressively flank The Waterfront restaurant's entrance.
Replicas of third-century B.C. terra-cotta tomb soldiers hover over
diners in the handsome interior of mahogany, slate and tile.
The restaurants
use real chefs. Austria-born Christian Mayrhofer leads The Waterfront
kitchen. In addition to the corporate menu, he runs local daily
specials and maintains a culinary focus. There are no microwaves
in the kitchen. Woks work overtime.
Some goods
are centrally purchased, but high-quality protein and vegetables
are locally sourced. With the exception of such things as wonton
skins, all is made from scratch on-site. Expect tasty, clean flavors
-- though not necessarily authentic. Signatures include chicken
in soothing lettuce wraps, orange peel shrimp, crab wontons and
fiery Szechuan-style asparagus or long beans.
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Congratulations
to: Levy Restaurants Sports & Entertainment Group, HOK Sport
+ Event + Venue architects/ design team, Levy's PNC Park food and
beverage director Tom Brett, charismatic executive chef Gil Logan
and, of course, the Pittsburgh Baseball Club. That's the winning
team that elevates the design and operations of PNC Park's Club
Level restaurants to new high standards for this type of facility.
The concepts
are creative, thoroughly researched and professionally executed.
"The club
level combines history, entertainment and energy to help tell the
story of the Pittsburgh Pirates," says HOK designer Kara Douglass.
"Every aspect is a must-see for visitors; each space sports
its own unique feel."
A walk-through
reveals: Gunner's, named for the late Bob "Gunner" Prince,
with plaid upholstery reminiscent of the popular announcer's famous
sports coats; Bierbauer's, an homage to the ballplayer credited
with the club's name (he was "pirated" from another team),
replete with vintage team photos, hand-carved sandwiches and an
outdoor patio; Keystone Corner, a comfortable lounge with pool tables,
references to Hall of Fame second baseman Bill Mazeroski and much
Pirates memorabilia; and Score Amore and PBC Grill, two between-the-bases
concessions reflecting distinctly different themes.
Throughout,
find strong colors and materials, fascinating historical displays
and riveting details -- an 8-foot-tall catcher's mitt and 24-inch-diameter
baseballs covered with memorabilia; Gunners' two 6-foot "green
weenies" suspended from the ceiling; a baseball-cap collection.
All comes together
conceptually for a wonderfully integrated ballpark experience.
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In 1989, Kathy
Yee opened Ya Fei -- the first Pittsburgh restaurant to showcase
Pacific Rim cuisine. Introducing concepts of fusion, she developed
popular dinners matching wines to Asian foods.
An independent,
entrepreneurial woman, Yee joined the Pittsburgh Chinese Restaurant
Association. She volunteers her time teaching English to Chinese
restaurant owners.
"There
are over 300 Chinese restaurants in Pittsburgh," she says.
"Fifty percent have a hard time speaking English."
As vice president
of PCRA, she also helps Chinese restaurant owners interface with
the Allegheny Health Department in situations requiring both language
and cultural interpretations. Recently she accepted a board position
with the Pennsylvania Restaurant Association's Western Chapter,
an important step in welding a relationship between that organization
and the PCRA.
On April 28,
2000, as part of a shooting rampage that left five persons dead
and one paralyzed, Richard Baumhammers opened fire inside Ya Fei,
killing two of Yee's employees: manager Ji-Ye Sun and deliveryman
Thao Pham. This tragedy and carnage traumatized the entire Pittsburgh
community and became a nightmare for Yee.
While struggling
with her own emotional overload, she provided support for the victims'
families and her employees. She also emerged as a spokesperson for
an Asian community confronting issues of racially motivated hate
crimes.
The fallout:
Yee lost 90 percent of her staff and 50 percent of her business.
Through the long haul back, she admits to thoughts of quitting.
But she didn't.
She's now revived her restaurant and even looks to future projects.
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