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Pittsburgh Magazine

February 2002

Pamela's wraps delicate pancakes
around fresh strawberries.
(Scroll down to read more about Pamela's.)

Photography by Blaine Stiger

Great Beginnings
Start your day with a good breakfast. BY THE EDITORS

Mother did know best. Breakfast is the most important meal of the day. The American Dietician Association reports that people who eat a good breakfast have better brain function, lower blood cholesterol (which reduces heart-disease risk) and more energy. It may be a meal to be taken lightly, but always seriously, and never to be skipped.

We want to inspire you with a baker's dozen of choice locations to get your day of work or class off to a good start. Join us for our breakfast club, and let Mom know that you're starting the day right.

Sowing Your Wild Oats
Despite the name, the Bagel Factory is not some impersonal national chain, but a local-family-owned and -operated bakery and deli with a few tables and a brisk takeout business.

Who Goes There: Lots of locals on their way to the nearby East Busway stop, or right after their morning jog, grab a bagel sandwich or a pint of its fabled oatmeal to eat on the run.

What to Order: Regulars call this "the best oatmeal in town," a chewy Irish oatmeal ($2.75) given added crunchiness with chopped walnuts, and a hint of sweetness with raisins and cinnamon sugar. The house-made bagels in 18 varieties (60¢ each) bite back with a decent crust; add your basic peanut butter or honey, or more interesting spreads like roasted garlic, wildberry or sun-dried tomato (99¢-$2.15). Or go for the classic bagel and lox with cream cheese, tomato, onion and/or capers ($5.25) or bagel and whitefish salad ($5.25). Combine two traditions with a bagel or bread sandwich of eggs with various combinations of cheese, bacon, ham or salami ($2.50-$2.95). Or sit down for a crunchy-on-the-outside Belgian waffle ($2.75, plus $1 for fruit topping when available, 50¢ for whipped cream). There's also an array of coffee drinks ($1.35-$3.25), but the hot chocolate ($1.95) is especially popular when it's nippy out.

The Details: 5825 Ellsworth Ave., Shadyside, 412/362-6666, fax 412/362-6116 (also 1079 Freeport Road, Fox Chapel Village, O'Hara, 412/781-4045, fax 412/781-4057; no oatmeal or waffles, shorter hours). Breakfast items available all day, Monday-Sunday, 6:30 a.m.-4 p.m. Most major credit cards. No smoking.

Deluca's Delights
When early-bird shoppers hit the Strip District but don't want to eat street food while walking through the shuffle, or simply need a break from the elements, they head to Deluca's. The line at this Strip District institution often stretches onto the sidewalk, but don't be discouraged -- it always moves quickly, and the hot breakfast is worth the wait.

Who Goes There: Just about everybody. You will find construction workers alongside white-collar business types, multigenerational family outings and congregations of the trendiest young adults.

What to Order: The sausage. Once, I tried to order bacon, and a helpful waitress asked, "Don't you want the sausage? Have you ever had our sausage?" Point taken. The sausage is served hot or sweet in the form of a long link that has been split down the middle and grilled. Put it with a couple of eggs, home fries and two thick slices of Italian toast ($4.99, weekday special 6-9 a.m.), and it is a tasty, if not healthful, start to the day. If you fancy something sweet, try the homemade waffles or pancakes served in a variety of preparations -- with blueberries, strawberries, chocolate chips or bananas and walnuts and topped with mounds of whipped cream ($3.59 without topping, $4.99 with). Of course, there is nonbreakfast fare on the menu, but the tall stacks of egg crates will call to you from the open kitchen area.

The Details: 2015 Penn Ave., Strip District, 412/566-2195. Breakfast served all day: Monday-Saturday, 6 a.m.-3 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Cash only. De facto all smoking.

Hashing It Out
It's hard to call Drew's Family Restaurant a diner, even though it has the requisite counter, waitress uniforms and dessert display case. Maybe it's the shrine to artist Burton Morris, who lives a few blocks away. Or maybe it's just that the kitchen rolls out food that's better than the typical diner fare.

Who Goes There: Family truly is the middle name of this Route 30 restaurant. Young and old alike are likely to be found gnoshing. The counter is a good place to get the scoop on Woodland Hills football. And every Wednesday morning is the Rotary breakfast, if you're so motivated.

What to Order: If you're a corned beef hash aficionado, this is a must-stop. Crispy home fries meet thin pieces of corned beef, green peppers, onions and two poached eggs ($5.60). Not a fan of hash? (Shame on you.) Opt for the malted Belgian waffle served with syrup or a dusting of powdered sugar ($3.55). For serious egg-eaters, there's the Ionian omelette with fresh spinach, feta and chopped tomato ($5.95), or the Italian frittata, featuring sausage, mushrooms and provolone ($5.45) -- just ask your server to go light on the tomato sauce. As for lighter fare, fresh fruit ($4.50-$7.25) changes seasonally.

The Details: 2060 Ardmore Blvd., Forest Hills, 412/271-1556. Breakfast served all day, Sunday-Thursday, 6 a.m.-midnight; Friday-Saturday, 6 a.m.-1 a.m. All major credit cards. Separate smoking section. Counter area is smoking.

Hometown Favorite
What's the best thing about the breakfast at Eat'n Park? Convenience (you can't throw a rock in Pittsburgh without hitting one) coupled with a pretty good -- and inexpensive -- meal. Starting the day off with a Smiley cookie doesn't hurt, either.

Who Goes There: The booths at Eat'n Park hold everyone from construction workers to high-powered executives. (It's a great place for breakfast for one, with lots of room to spread out the morning paper.) Anyone who wants a quick, convenient breakfast before starting the day eventually ends up there.

What to Order: Say "good morning" to the Breakfast Smile ($3.89; $2.99 on weekdays, 5-11 a.m.) -- the restaurant's signature combo of eggs, bacon or sausage, and hash browns or home fries. The three-egg omelettes -- from plain cheese to Supreme (cheese, tomato, green pepper, onion and celery) -- are a favorite ($4.59-$5.29). The perennial breakfast foods are here -- pancakes, French toast, waffles and eggs -- in good-sized portions. For lighter fare, try the fresh fruit cup ($2.09), oatmeal or cold cereal ($1.69) or the breakfast buffet ($4.89 weekdays; $5.59 on weekends -- available on weekends only at some locations). Egg substitutes are available on request.

The Details: More than 70 locations throughout the area, 412/461-2000, eatnpark.com. Most locations are open 24 hours, and breakfast is served any time at all locations; lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch also served. All major credit cards.

The Scone Arranger -- and Pronto
Sometimes you want to start the day with a good cup of coffee, a pastry or scone served in a very comfortable setting where you can choose to just linger or fuel up and get on your way. That's the kind of day for Highland Park's Enrico's Tazza D'Oro Cafe and Espresso Bar. And with Enrico (he of the Strip bakery fame) supplying the biscotti, scones and pastry, you're off to a good start.

Who Goes There: It's a neighborhood stop, designed with comfort in mind. Relax from a morning run with classical music in the background (courtesy of WQED-FM 89.3). Laptops are a common sight for those who have more flexible schedules.

What to Order: Coffee shops live by their coffee, and the French-press java brewed here is exceptional ($4.95/pot). Or upgrade to a caffe latte ($1.90-$2.70) or macchiato ($1.35 single, $1.60 double) from the espresso bar. Find a nice selection of loose-leaf teas -- black, green, herbal and organic ($1.15-$2.25). More healthful are the fruit smoothies ($2.25-$3.50). Choose from strawberry, raspberry and banana. Food offerings are limited but luscious. Blueberry scones ($1.50) are flaky and a good value. There is also a good selection of muffins and biscotti. On Sundays, the selection grows to include fritattas.

The Details: 1125 N. Highland Ave., Highland Park, 412/362-3676, fax 412/362-5121, tazzadoro.net. Monday-Thursday, 7 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday, 7 a.m.-11 p.m.; Saturday, 8 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sunday, 8 a.m.-5 p.m., with brunch 9 a.m.-1 p.m. Checks and cash only. No smoking.

The Zen of Breakfast
Tucked away on a side street, Jen's Juice and Cafe -- known to regulars as Jen's Juice Joint -- offers a respite from both the bustle of Walnut Street and the heaviness of the traditional Pittsburgh breakfast.

Who Goes There: Self-described "granola bunnies," vegans, bodybuilders, athletes in training and just folks wanting a quick but nutritionally sound start to the day swing by for a wrap or smoothie. Most folks grab takeout, but there's also a lovely little seating area in the back.

What to Order: If you're the type who can't face solid food in the morning, you can still get a well-balanced breakfast in a fruit smoothie ($3.75) of yogurt and various fruits and juices, such as the Harlet Skyberry of apple juice, blackberries, raspberries and blueberries. No dairy? Choose a supplement drink ($3.75) and skip the yogurt on something like the spicy ginseng ginger snap of carrot and apple juice with ginger, ginseng and ginkgo biloba. Looking for something you can sink your teeth into? The breakfast burrito ($3.95) wraps a tortilla around scrambled eggs, roasted red peppers, grilled mushrooms, spinach and tomato salsa (add cheese, 50¢; soy cheese, $1; or all egg whites, $1). Or stay vegan with granola and soy milk, or hot oatmeal mixed with fruit (the berries were yummy), both $3.29 each.

The Details: 733 Copeland St., Shadyside, 412/683-7374, jensjuice.com. Breakfast, all beverages always available, many sandwiches also available early; Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.-6 p.m., till 7 p.m. Wednesday; Saturday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m.-5 p.m. (Hours change seasonally.) Checks or cash only. No smoking.

The JoJo omelette packs everything
into eggs.

Everything Into an Omelette
If you were shipwrecked and hadn't eaten in weeks, and you ended up at JoJo's for your first meal, you probably still would not be able to clean your plate. There is nothing dainty or petite about anything served at the restaurant, from the three-egg omelettes to the mile-high plate of home fries that made this magazine's "Best of the 'Burgh" list last June.

Who Goes There: A lot of construction workers, truck drivers and other blue-collar workers, along with a few Strip District shoppers who managed to wander in off Penn Avenue. What to Order: If you are REALLY hungry or have someone willing to split it with you, go for the JoJo omelette ($6.95) -- eggs, peppers, onions, cheese mushrooms, and your choice of bacon, ham, sweet sausage or hot sausage, served (as are all omelettes on the menu) with home fries and very buttered toast. For something slightly smaller in scale, try the spinach omelette ($5.75) with provolone and mushrooms. Another favorite is the breakfast sandwich ($5.50): fried egg, cheese and bacon, ham, sweet or hot sausage on toast, English muffin or bagel with home fries. There is a short stack of pancakes ($3.19) and French toast made with Italian bread ($3.49 for three slices, $4.49 with breakfast meat) to satisfy an early-morning sweet tooth.

The Details: 24th and Smallman streets, Strip District, 412/261-0280. Monday-Friday, 11 p.m.-1 p.m.; Saturday-Sunday, 11 p.m.-noon. Cash only. All smoking.

Fresh fruit brightens the day
at the Terrace Room.

History on a Plate
The mural "Recapture of Fort Pitt" -- full of historical inaccuracies but itself a historic landmark -- dominates the Terrace Room at the Omni William Penn, a spectacular setting to get you going in the morning.

Who Goes There: The spacious tables have plenty of room for high-powered business execs and busy club members to look over contracts, spreadsheets, proposals and agendas.

What to Order: It's pricey, but this is what you need to impress that important client or prospective in-law. The signature Bloomfield ($11.75) bakes three scrambled eggs with mozzarella, accompanied by broiled tomato, grilled onions and peppers, and hot sausage. Close the deal with tenderloin on wild mushrooms with two scrambled eggs ($14.75). Luxuriate with the smoked salmon platter ($12.50), which includes a bagel, red onion, sliced egg, cream cheese and capers. Eggs benedict comes traditional-style ($11.50) or Baltimore ($12.50), with a crab cake instead of English bacon. Lighten up with a fresh fruit platter ($8.50) -- if you're counting calories, switch the walnut cinnamon coffee cake for plain toast: pumpernickel, Italian or sourdough as well as the expected white or wheat. Or opt for a banana-strawberry smoothie ($6.50) or oatmeal with brown sugar and milk ($4.75; with fruit, $5.75).

The Details: Enter from the Palm Court of the William Penn, 530 William Penn Place, downtown, 412/281-7100, omnihotels.com. Breakfast served 6:30-11 a.m.; lunch, dinner, Sunday brunch also served. All major credit cards. No smoking.

Flippin' Over Flapjacks
Ask anyone in Pittsburgh where to go for good pancakes, and he or she is sure to mention Pamela's. Actually, just mention breakfast and that's the answer you'll get.

Who Goes There: A lot of college students, young professionals, senior citizens and business people -- it seems everyone in Pittsburgh has been here, and with good reason.

What to Order: Without any doubt, when in Pamela's, order the thin, crepe-like hotcakes ($2.95 special before 11 a.m. weekdays; or $3.25-$5.25): plain or stuffed with goodies like strawberries and cream, chocolate chips, bananas and whipped cream, or hot apple-pie filling with walnuts. Corned beef hash connoisseurs won't want to miss the definitely-not-from-a-can variety ($3.50 for a side order/$4.95 for corned beef hash, two eggs and toast). Omelettes ($4.95-$5.25) are good, too, especially the spinach and feta; western and vegetarian -- egg whites or egg substitutes are available for an extra charge.

The Details: 5813 Forbes Ave., Squirrel Hill, 412/422-9457 (plus locations in Oakland, Shadyside and Millvale). Breakfast served all day, Monday-Saturday, 8 a.m.-4 p.m.; Sunday, 9 a.m.-2 p.m.; lunch and dinner also served. Cash only. One room, smoking permitted.

Nothin' Finer
Walk into Tom's Diner in Dormont and you immediately know it's a classic American diner -- from the white plastic laminate tabletops and red vinyl booths to the menu.

Who Goes There: Stop in on a weekday morning, and you'll see a lot of students on their way to high school, blue-collar workers fueling up for the day, and other locals sipping coffee.

Who Goes There: Tom's is known for its Greek flavors, so try out the gyro omelette ($4.75) -- a three-egg creation stuffed with gyro meat, fried green peppers, onions and American cheese. Make it a special ($5.50) to get the excellent home fries (99¢, or $1.25 a la carte) as well. The vegetarian ($3.95) and western omelettes ($3.75) are good, too. If omelettes aren't your style, there are perennial breakfast favorites such as Belgian waffles and French toast ($2.45 each, up to $3.45 with meat). Tom's isn't the greasiest of spoons, but it's not health food either. The most healthful thing you'll find is hot oatmeal ($1.75) or cold cereal ($1.50).

The Details: 2937 West Liberty Ave., Dormont, 412/531-2030 (also 1715 E. Carson St., South Side, 412/488-0900). Both locations open 24/7 and breakfast is served anytime; lunch and dinner also available. Most major credit cards. All smoking.

Under the Clock at...
Time certainly does seem to have stood still at the Tic Toc Shop, with its array of nonworking clocks decorating one wall, and a collection of artifact Kaufmann's photos -- "from the '30s 'n'at," the helpful hostess tells me -- lining the others. The serving staff and customers alike measure their loyalty in decades, not mere months or years.

Who Goes There: Although classic for "the ladies who lunch" set, the popular tearoom attracts its share of men -- mostly shoppers, downtown workers, and anyone else who wants a basic breakfast.

What to Order: Not a big appetite? The Quickie ($1.95) solves the problem with a single egg, bacon and toast (or two of each for $3.50). Or how about a poached (actually coddled) egg on toast ($1.25), or a generous fresh fruit cup ($2.25), maybe with a bagel or English muffin (85¢; splurge on a pecan roll, 95¢). Or dig into waffles (traditional or Belgian) or French toast ($4.50 each) with ham, bacon or sausage; or three-egg filled omelettes ($4.75) with home fries.

The Details: First floor (Fifth Avenue side) of Kaufmann's Department Store, 400 Fifth Ave., downtown, 412/232-2307. Breakfast generally 9-11 a.m., Monday-Saturday (can vary according to sales event and season) at the counter, 10-11 a.m. in the dining room. Kaufmann's charge and most major credit cards. Smoking permitted in well-ventilated side dining room and at one end of the counter.

Olé
When you're in Kenny B's Eatery, you know you're in the Cultural District from the posters for the Pittsburgh Opera, Broadway Series, Public Theater and other entertaining neighbors lining the walls of this Cuban-flavored cubbyhole.

Who Goes There: Downtown students, beat cops and everyone working in the Cultural District -- from execs to artists -- flock here for a breakfast that tastes rich without being greasy, at decent comfort-food prices.

What to Order: Where else can you get a tortilla de platanos maduro: a thin, Cuban-style omelette wrapped around fried plantains ($4.44, with toast)? Add greaseless home fries: plain, smothered with onions, covered with cheese, or both ($1.54-$2.34), or velvety-smooth grits ($1.96). Or try the papas y cebolla, a Cuban-style omelette with onions and potatoes cooked right in the eggs ($4.44). If you want the house specialty, huevos habaneros (baked eggs on a Cuban sofrito), expect to wait a half hour, or call in advance. No habla? Order up challah French toast with bacon, ham or sausage ($3.97); the classic three eggs, toast, home fries and breakfast meat ($3.97, or $4.97 adds buttermilk pancakes); the Big Dave of three eggs, bacon, peppers, onions, tomatoes and cheese on a hoagie bun ($3.97); or from the range of omelettes. Until 11 a.m., coffee, tea or juice is only 51¢ with breakfast.

The Details: 123 Sixth St., downtown, 412/201-1626, fax 412/201-4336. Breakfast served all day, Monday, 7 a.m.-3 p.m.; Tuesday-Friday, 7 a.m.-8 p.m.; Saturday, 8 a.m.-8 p.m.; Sunday, 8 a.m.-1:30 p.m. (Cuban buffet 3:30-7 p.m.); lunch available after 11 a.m. Most major credit cards. All smoking.

Toast of the Town
Bellevue's Rusty Nail is a friendly, cozy place, a fixture on the borough's "main street," Lincoln Avenue, where you can walk, shop -- and eat. The intimate space has the feel of a family dining room.

Who Goes There: Folks grabbing a bite on their way to work, retirees with time for a leisurely meal, residents, shoppers. On Sundays, it's a popular destination for those attending the Bellevue area's many houses of worship (complimentary coffee outside if the waiting line spills onto the sidewalk).

What to Order: If you're in a hurry, go for an Early Bird Special ($2.99: Monday-Friday, 8-11 a.m.) and choose from six options featuring traditional fare like French toast, pancakes or eggs. Menu items include a combo ($4.95) of French toast, one egg, bacon or sausage, and Italian toast (Breadworks bread featured), plus a variety of omelettes ($4.40-$6.95), like mushroom and spinach, steak and cheese, etc., which can be made with egg substitute. The crepelike roll-ups (2/$5.50; $6.50 w/bacon or sausage) offer strawberry or blueberry fillings, and a whipped cream topping. Changing specials on Saturdays and Sundays (8 a.m.-2 p.m.) may include a country French toast combo ($5.50-$6.95) with warm cherry or cinnamon apple toppings, plus ham, bacon or sausage. Personal plus: Even in winter -- please don't read this, Mom -- I like iced tea with breakfast, and this place has the fresh-brewed kind.

The Details: 560 Lincoln Ave., Bellevue, 412/766-9228. Breakfast available anytime during regular hours, Monday-Sunday, 8 a.m.-9 p.m.; lunch and dinner also served. Cash, checks. One room, smoking permitted.

 

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