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Cream Puffs

Cream Puffery


The cream puff is an old favorite prized for its flaky yet crispy exterior and decadent, pudding-like filling. It's traditional to prepare this version on the feast of St. Joseph, March 19.

Why is it that some foods get a negative spin when they are used descriptively? No one wants to be referred to as a "cream puff" much less a "weenie." "Hot-doggers" are show-offs, and "lemons" are returned to the dealer. A "ham" eats up the scenery, and when the show closes they say it "laid an egg" or it was a "turkey."

It's time we lovers of food stand up for the rights of our flavorful friends! I'm not "chicken!" Male chauvinists should be proud to be referred to as "pigs." Dare I say we should "turnover" a new leaf and take up our "beef" with the word police? We've been "battered" enough.

For my part, I give you a recipe for the noble cream puff. It can stand up to the harshest dessert critic and is not afraid to wear its crown with a little sprinkling of powdered sugar. Enjoy it on the feast of St. Joseph, March 19. It's my father's name day, and Mom never failed to treat him to this stout-hearted treat.

Sfingi di San Giuseppe
(St. Joseph's Day Cream Puffs)

Makes 12-16

Ingredients:
1 cup water
8 tablespoons oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 eggs
1 cup flour

Filling:
1 pound whole milk ricotta (drained)
1 cup confectioners' sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 tablespoons whiskey
Chopped candied orange peel
Chopped chocolate pieces

Instructions:

Pastry:
Bring water to a boil. Add the oil and salt. Add the flour all at once and stir until it forms a ball. Remove from the heat. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing until each egg is incorporated before adding the next. Drop dough by teaspoon or tablespoon (depending on desired size) onto a greased or parchment-lined cookie sheet. Bake at 450 degrees for 15 minutes. Lower heat to 350 degrees and cook until golden-brown. Remove from the oven and cut a slit into the side of each puff to release steam.

Filling:
Drain the ricotta in a fine strainer overnight in the refrigerator. Mix it with the confectioners' sugar, vanilla and whiskey. Refrigerate for 1 hour or more. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve or strainer to make it creamy. Add the chopped candied orange peels and chocolate pieces.

Assembly:
When the puffs are completely cool, fill with cream and sprinkle with confectioners' sugar.

Candied Orange Peel

Ingredients:
3 large navel oranges or 6 tangerines
2 cups sugar
1 cup water

Instructions:
Peel the orange into 4 to 6 fairly large wedges. Soak the peels overnight in a bowl of salted water using a plate on top to keep the peels under water.

Rinse the peels and put them in a saucepan with enough water to cover. Bring to a boil. Discard the water and repeat 2 more times.

Using a spoon, scrape the white pulp (pith) from the inside of the peels.

In a large heavy saucepan, make a simple syrup by dissolving the 2 cups of sugar in 1 cup of water. Put in the orange peels and let them simmer until they become translucent and have absorbed much of the syrup.

Store in a tightly closed container in the refrigerator.

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