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Pittsburgh magazine

Cooking with Chris

Barbeque Ribs
Ribs: They appeal to humankind’s
and Chris’ most primal
carnivorous

And it's just so darn good.

OK, you’re stranded on a desert island and have nothing to eat but coconuts and the occasional flying fish. After five years you’re rescued, and they offer you any meal you would like. What do you select? For me there wouldn’t be a moment’s hesitation—ribs—and not just because I would have been meat-deprived for all that time.

For my money, ribs are the most decadent, soul-satisfying, lip-smacking, finger-licking delicious food in the entire world. You can have your filet mignon and foie gras; just give me a slab, slow-cooked over a charcoal fire and served with a tangy sauce on the side. A few years back, I was selected to be one of the judges at the Labor Day rib cook-off at South Park. I spent two whole days with my elbows on the table gnawing on pork bones trying to come up with one bad thing to say about any of the contestants. They were all delicious. Fourth of July will find many of us gathering around backyard cooking devices making burnt offerings to the barbecue gods, so it might be useful to go over some of the rib basics before you get started. There are at least three varieties of ribs that are easily available in most supermarket meat sections. The first are spare ribs. They come from the belly and are characterized by long, slender bones attached to the brisket section. St. Louis-style ribs come from this section but with the brisket bone and skirt meat removed. Aficionados refer to these as “real” ribs with the authentic flavor and fattiness.

Baby back ribs come from the blade and center of the loin, and each rack has approximately 12 to 14 bones. This is the cut favored in most cook-offs because it has more meat between the bones and requires less trimming. Country-style ribs are from the blade end of the loin and have the highest meat-to-bone ratio and are also available boneless. (Are boneless ribs an oxymoron?) In many ways, these are more like pork chops than ribs, but if meat and sauce are your priorities, these will do nicely. If you have a whole day to spend stoking a coal fire, you can slow-smoke the ribs over indirect heat, mopping every 15 minutes or so with a mixture of apple cider and cola. But most of us would prefer to prepare things far enough in advance to spend the day with our family and friends and still enjoy that authentic barbecue flavor. The recipe here results in pork that has that smoky outdoor flavor combined with fall-off-the-bone tenderness. The sauce is served on the side and is strictly optional since these ribs will stand on their own. This July 4 is a great time to connect with our forefathers who brought forth a new nation and with our even further-fathers who gathered around comforting fires to gnaw on the bones of delicious animals.


Ingredients:
2 tablespoons salt
2 teaspoons black pepper
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon chili powder
1 teaspoon brown sugar

Barbecue Sauce:
2 cups ketchup
1/2 cup molasses
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon onion powder
1 teaspoon paprika

 

Directions:
Remove the membrane from the back of each rack by loosening the skin at the edge, gripping with a paper towel and carefully pulling back. Rub both sides of the ribs with the dry rub mixture. Put into a plastic bag and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight. Put the ribs into a shallow roasting pan in a single layer. Cover tightly in foil and roast at 300 degrees for 2 hours or until meat is tender and nearly falling off the bone. Drain off the fat and brush with a thin layer of sauce (recipe to follow). Cook over low or indirect heat on a gas or charcoal barbecue until glazed, about 30 minutes. Cut into 2 rib portions and serve with heated sauce on the side. Put all ingredients into a saucepan. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 15 minutes.

Serves 8.

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TOP 10 ESSENTIALS FOR COOKING
Here's my top-10 list of kitchen essentials for a well-equipped kitchen:

1. An 8-inch chef knife and 3-inch paring knife. Make sure they are high-carbon stainless, forged knives. Avoid the "82-knife set."

2. Cutting board. I favor nylon or bamboo. In either case, make sure it is lightweight and at least 12-by-20-inches.

3. Measuring cups and spoons. You'll need a 2-cup and a 4-cup liquid measuring cup, a set of measuring cups for dry ingredients and a set of measuring spoons. Stainless steel is the most durable.

4. A 12-inch nonstick skillet with cover. Tri-ply such as All-Clad is the best for even heating. This pan does everything from omelets to sautés.

5. An 8-quart stock pot. This is essential for boiling pasta, steaming vegetables or making large batches of chili, soups and stews.

6. Colander. Get stainless steel with firmly riveted handles.

7. A 3-quart covered saucepan. This rounds out your pots-and-pans inventory for small boiling projects and heating canned soups.

8. A four-sided cheese grater. Freshly grated cheese is a big flavor boost for your cooking. This tool is also useful for grating vegetables and shredding lemon zest.

9. Sheet pan. This inexpensive pan has raised sides and can be used to bake cookies, breads and pizza, or to roast vegetables and meats.

10. A 6-quart slow cooker. This is a working couple's best friend. Ten minutes of prep in the morning yields a dinner entree and loads of leftovers. The models with the thickest insert provide the slowest, most-even cooking. Be sure it's at least a 5-quart capacity.

- Chris Fennimore