Eating
out
For many
people, "eating out" is the highlight of an evening's
activity. Gathering over food can have a formal and refined flair, or
be social and silly. Western Pennsylvania, with its many distinct neighborhoods,
boasts a variety of restaurants to satisfy even the most outrageous
cravings.
In the 1700's,
when Pittsburgh was a frontier outpost populated by fur traders and
military men, "having fun" was a relative term. Often, food
was the foundation for a "social" event built around sharing
coffee and a meal with a traveler who could provide much-appreciated
news from "civilization" back East. Sharing food is a highly
communal custom. Whether the dishes are traditionally ethnic, regional
specialties, or an excuse to try out a new recipe, gathering around
the table for fellowship is one of the most socialized and ritualized
of customs.
Churches
provided a foundation for community gatherings and activities as the
village of Pittsburgh formed around Fort Pitt, and many of the region's
ethnic groups established houses of worship to reflect their individual
beliefs. Communities were reliant on walking to get from place to place,
so each neighborhood was a closely-knit entity that took on the air
of its inhabitants, and the customs and traditions of the church influenced
the goods in the local markets. Even today, one is likely to look for
a kosher deli in the Squirrel Hill section of the city, Oktoberfest
on the North Side, and Indian and Asian marketplaces in the East End
of town. Church basements on the South Side and in Lawrenceville offer
the allure of homemade pierogies, and vendors in the Strip District
supply the seven traditional fishes for an Italian Christmas Eve feast.
Related video stories:
But our ways
with food extend beyond ethnic traditions. Ask anyone from the northern
states to explain a "southern fried steak" and you are as
likely to encounter a blank stare -- as if a Pittsburgher walked up
to a deli counter in Georgia and asked for "chipped chopped ham."
In a culture becoming increasingly homogenized by national fast food chains and corporate "theme" restaurants,
regional food specialties help to define an area.
Pittsburgh History & Landmarks |
| A trip to the Strip is more than just getting the grub! |
Long before
"golden arches" graced every community in the country, one
Pittsburgh fast food chain was well-known and heartily patronized. In
fact, the chain's slogan -- "Winky's makes you happy to be
hungry" captured the spirit of the restaurant whose spotlight
sandwich was called "The Big Wink."
The Jiffy
Foods Corporation owned Winkys, and by the end of the 1980s, both the
parent corporation and the chain were out of business. Before then,
however, the distinctive white and orange Winky's logos were seen
all around the region, and everyone could claim to have eaten one of
their famous fifteen cent hamburgers at one time or another.
Related video stories:
Winky's
hamburger stands
Another nostalgic
Pittsburgh eatery was Isaly's. This deli-restaurant at one time
had stores all over the city, and many residents recall such famous
regional snacks as Klondike ice cream bars, chipped ham, and the skyscaper
ice cream cone. Today, only a few Isaly's still dot the Pittsburgh
landscape, although Klondike bars are still marketed in major grocery
stores.
Related video stories:
Isaly's
All around
the region, residents are fiercely loyal to their favorite eateries.
Whether it's a fond memory of the now-defunct Gazebo Deli in Shadyside
or the tantalizing promise of Kennywood Potato Patch French fries each
summer, food holds an allure that is satisfying in ways that stretch
beyond physical satisfaction. Consider the different kinds of eateries
in your neighborhood ranging from the five-star restaurant to
the ethnic diner to the local church's Friday night "fish
fry." What kind of crowd does each place attract? What sort of
atmosphere exists? And what sort of social interaction does each place
inspire? You'll probably discover that food fills us up in ways
that exceed the mere dictates of appetite!
Rick Sebak |
| Good
old-fashioned Diner food! |
Related video stories:
See also Chris Fennimore's
column on Church Lady Cooking in Pittsburgh Magazine |